Maintenance

Maintenance. This it the key if you want enjoy your drive more than wrench it. This is especially true in the SyTy world. These truck are really in the need of some serious care. Let's see what I usually do to keep her in the best shape. * Ignition
It should be really in top shape. If you have a starting ignition problem most probably you will see it at high boost first. Missfiring, hesitation, loss of power etc. There are some rules. There are a very few spark plugs which you can use in these beauties. To name these few:

• AC Delco CR42TS
• NGK UR5
• NGK UR5IX

* I started to use CR42TS then changed to NGK UR6. It's one range colder than the stock, but it helped to reduce my knock. The IX NGK plugs have iridium electrodes. They has to said good, but the price is outrageous (~$7 for a plug) and you can't adjust their gap. There are some guys with heavily modified trucks who had success with Autolite plugs too. And that's the end of the story. Don't use any other plugs. Bosch, Champions etc. They make no good for us. * I still running with 0.035 inch gap with my plugs and this is working for me. If you are running high boost with some upgraded turbo you can try to shorten this gap a bit. I usually replace my plugs once a year at the start of the season. * Ignition wires. There are also just a few of them which proved themselves.

• MSD 8.5 mm Super Conductor
• Taylor Wire Set Spiro Pro Red #74232
• KB Red Hot Turbo Wires #KB8052
• ATR Black Beauties #SY127

* I changed my stockers to KB and I was happy with them, but favour Taylor, because it's using the same material as KB and cheaper. BTW KB is discontinued AFAIK. Anyway both types have a problem, you can easily pull down the boot, especially on the straigth ends. Not good, so I recently changed to MSD and I'm happy with them so far. A bit more pricey than the Taylor, but looks better too. I check the resistance of my wires when I replace my cap/rotor and replace them if there is a need. You can also check them for cracks, melting (keep away them from the headers!). One more tip, that you should isolate them from each other from some kind of wire spacers which you can buy at most auto chain stores. There are some references to check the resistance: *

MSD 8.5 mm Super Conductor (OHMS)
Coil Wire	Wire #1	Wire #2	Wire #3	Wire #4	Wire #5	Wire #6
35	123	94	90	89	89	99

*

Taylor Wire Set Spiro Pro (OHMS)
Coil Wire	Wire #1	Wire #2	Wire #3	Wire #4	Wire #5	Wire #6
288	857	749	619	660	666	611

*

KB Red Hot Turbo (OHMS)
Coil Wire	Wire #1	Wire #2	Wire #3	Wire #4	Wire #5	Wire #6
236	1052	781	605	628	698	640

*

ATR Black Beauties (OHMS)
Coil Wire	Wire #1	Wire #2	Wire #3	Wire #4	Wire #5	Wire #6
159	869	608	593	596	619	612

* Thanks Richard for the above data on ATR and KB. * Cap and rotors. GM parts do quite well here. #10477182 for the cap and #10497452 for the rotor. It worked for me. An other recommended brand is Conrad. The PN is DR2012G for the cap an d rotor as a set. Autozone carries them. And it's red. ;-) I also replace my cap and rotor at the start of the season.



If you have any ignition problem just replace them all. It maybe not the smartest thing to do, but it'll spare you some headaches. * I'd also recommend to check your timing at least once a year. you have to disconnect the ECM bypass connector under the pssenger side dash (brown wire) and check the timing with a timing gun. The scale could be find on the harmonic balancer. It should be 0. Sometimes, especially if you have problems it wise to check to TDC mechnically with a TDC stop or with a good eye and flashlight. * Engine oil/oil filter
As at every turbo engines the quality of the oil in the engine has more importance as in a normally aspirated engine. The factory suggestion is 10w30. I'd say use only fully sintetics. I only use Mobil 1 15w50. Since I don't use my truck in the winter that is good for me. As the oil filter there are some with other's recommendation.

• AC Delco: PF51
• Mobil 1 #M1-201

Since I couldn't find the above two very easy here in Hungary, I tend to use an original GM (Opel) filter #650 388 (90421982). Since my miles with the truck are very low, I usualy change my oil and filter twice a year. I use up 4.2l (4.5 quarts) at every change.



Two filters which you shouldn't use. * Tranny oil/oil filter
I also use here some Mobil 1 stuff, Dexron III to be specific. The GM #. I always replace the tranny pan gasket when I replace the filter. I use up 6l (6.3 quarts) at every change (I've a deep pan and an additional cooler too.) * Air filter
I'm using a cone K&N filter, which I usually clean up once every year. * Fuel filter
It could be a problem, so I'd say replace it every second year if you use the truck like me. GM #25055046 or #25055052. * Engine coolant
I'm using 30% antifreeze with %70 water and replace it once every year. Pls note that you should drain it from the block too. The drain plug for the block is on the drivers side, quite hard to find and reach. * IC coolant
I try to use the minimum antifreeze here, 10%. There is no better coolant than water. I change it once every year. Pls note, that usually there is a lot of air circulating in the system when you start to fill it up. Especially with the popular rubber hose upgrade, because the hoses are running really high. So when you first filled it up you should use a jumper between ALDL terminal 'A' and 'B". This will turn on your IC pump (beside other things), so you can purge the air out and fill it up completely. Also after some time you filled it, you should check, it might require more. * PCV valves
There are two at the passenger side. Check it every year, replace them if you can't shake them easily. GM #8995910 or AC Delco #799C. * Diff and Transfer Case fluids
In the transfer case I use the same Mobil 1 Dexron III oil as in the tranny. In the front and rear differential I use 80w90 multi purpose Mobillube HD gear oil from Mobil. You should check the level of these fluids every half a year and change them every second year. * Brake fluid
* Power steering fluid
You should check your power steering fluid level once a year and fill it up if it's under the appropriate level. GM #1050017. * Battery
Since my truck runs occasionally I always disconnect my battery when parking in the garage. If you are using a non spiral cell battery always check the acid's level if it stayed in the garage more than a week. Look for oxidation on the terminals too. I'm using an Optima Red Top 1050, and it's working fine. It's size is 245x172x199 mm so it's fits quite well to the stock location. Since it's using spiral cell technology you can also mount it whenever and how you want to, even in the cab. It's life is also supposed to be much longer than a normal battery's.



It's 55Ah, it has a huge crancking power, 850A at -18°C, and 1050A at 0°C. It's reserve capacity is 120 min at 25A. Requires no other maintanance then the things mentioned above. * Please note that the above recommendations based only on my experience, so they could be wrong. *